Agiba Beach

‘Agiba’ in Arabic means miracle.

The locals call it as such because a magnificent seven different colour formation on the sea (some said on the sky between the sea and the sun) during sunset can be witnessed here.

To our dismay, we couldn’t see it because the sun was set into the nearby hill, not into the sea.

So, we just witnessed a sunset that you can see it anywhere else. But, the beach here is just beautiful. And the water is bluish and clear.

Sīwa

The town of Sīwa as seen from Mountain of the Dead

Located approximately 300 km southwest from Mersa Matruh and 50 km east from Libyan border, the oasis is a depression about 18 metres below sea level. Its length is 80 km whilst its width is 20 km. It is officially added to Egypt by Muhammad Ali in 1819.

Grand Mosque of Sīwa

Sīwa is the only place in Egypt that is lived by Berber people. Most of the people here wear ‘jalabiyyah’ (traditional Arabian cloak), from young to elderly, unlike other Egyptians who wear ordinary t-shirts and jeans.

The town of Sīwa as seen from Shali

In Siwi language, the word Sīwa means ‘the bird of prey.’ The original town of Sīwa was located at Aghurmi (where Aghurmi clan lives now), near the Temple of Amun (Temple of Umm Ubaydah). Since they were frequently attacked by Bedouins, forty men from seven clans decided to build a new fortified town of Shali. Inhabitants of Sīwa is divided into fourteen tribes, and each tribe has their own chieftain (sheikh or al-Qāid) and their assistants. Sheikh claimed that these leaders govern their people according to Sharia law. Police is only needed for a few matters only. The town council is called ‘al-Agwad.’

They have distinguished language called Siwi language – subfamily of Berber language. But, Arabic is still widely used (to talk with outsiders and to be used on signboards). They are nice people.

Sheikh Idris as-Sanusi is briefing about Sīwa to Malaysian students

Sheikh Idris as-Sanusi said that Sīwa is a manifestation of the verses 33 until 35 from Surah Yāsīn al-Qurān.

“And a sign for them is the dead land. We give it life and We bring forth from it grains, so that they eat thereof.

“And we have made therein gardens of date-palms and grapes, and We have caused springs of water to gush forth therein.

“So that they may eat of the fruit thereof - and their hands made it not. Will they not, then, give thanks?”

Sīwa. Donkey cars are used as public transports here. Locals call it 'taxi.'

The History of Sīwa

The Manuscript of Sīwa (مخطوط سيوة) is the most important historical record of Sīwa. It is said to be written a hundred years ago by Abu Musallim, a qadi who received his education at al-Azhar University and kept by one of the Sīwan clans. It describes a summary of information from medieval Arab chroniclers, oral history of the oasis, origins of the different clans, their customs and traditions and other historical events. No fixed date can be given for the introduction of Islam into Sīwa but we cannot be far wrong if we say that the new religion (Islam) found its way into Sīwa in all probability before the end of the first century of Islam (7^th century AD).

Jabal Abyad

The Shali

Shali is also known as al-Qaryah al-Qadimah in Arabic. It was built in around year 600 Hijra (1203 AD) according to Sīwan Manuscript. Shali means ‘the town’ in Siwi language. The city’s entrance is called al-Babinshal (ٱلبابنشال). The word is combination of Arabic and Sīwi language which means ‘the entrance to the town.’

Shali

Shali was built on the hill because two reasons. One, to guards against bandits from stealing their crops. Two, usually the air of the elevated part of the land is much cooler. So, it is important for the Sīwan living in elevated area to overcome the desert hotness. Allāh has said in verse 81 of Surah an-Nahl, "And Allāh has made for you out of that which He has created shades, and has made for you places of refuge in the mountains, and has made for you garments to protect you from the heat (and cold), and coats of mail to protect you from your (mutual) violence. Thus does He perfect His Grace unto you, that you may submit yourselves to His Will (in Islām)"

Western Gate

Shali is now a deserted. It has two gates: Western Gate and Eastern Gate. The former can be located near the Old Sīwan (Umar) Mosque. East Shali is the old part of the Shali. As the inhabitants began to move out of the fortified town, a group of them went to the west and built an area known as West Shali today. Houses in West Shali are in better state of conservation compared to the East. Many houses in West Shali have already been restored by Shali Project and more are to follow.

The Old Sīwan Mosque (Umar Mosque)

The Old Sīwan Mosque co-existed with Shali. The mosque’s name is Umar Mosque. There is a very famous saying (among Malays) that this mosque was officiated its opening by Caliph Umar al-Khattab. I simply doubt it. There is a jar near its entrance and a basin carved from stone called ‘teghumt.’ The praying hall is supported by six pillars and its roof is built of by date palm trunks. Its minaret is not only used to call for prayers, but it is also used by muezzin twice at a night to announce the ending period of watering the fields and the beginning of a new season. During the day, a professional timekeeper called ‘raqqab,’ uses it to determine the different seasons by using sundial.

The elder Sīwans said, there was a tunnel from al-Babinshal passing below the mosque, but it was collapsed approximately sixty years ago. The Sīwan rebuilt the collapsed part by filling the tunnel with ‘karsheef’ rubble. There was also a shaded gallery between the mosque and the town’s gate called ‘mazallah,’ where the town council (al-Agwad) meeting used to be held.

Deserted housed

People started to move out of Shali during 19^th century. No exact cause but it was believed that heavy downpours had destroyed most of the houses which made of clays. On the year 1926, Shali is completely deserted after heavy rain struck the town demolishing many residences. And the remnants of this fort were used as building material for new houses in Sīwa.

Building materials

Karsheef is salty mud taken from the top layer of soil around the Sīwan lakes. It is cut into random pieces to build walls.

Mud is originates from Sīwan soils. The good quality mud is extracted from the direct layer beneath the karsheef. It is used as mortar and wall plasters. It is mixed with water and left to dry for a period of time that could last for months. Date palms are sometimes sow below the mixture, and the mud is only considered as good when the palms emerge out of the dried mud.

Mud is also used to make the floor for the upper storey on the top of the ground floor’s ceiling. This layer is thinner but it is strong.

Olive tree branches were used to connect walls, strengthening the corners and to make doors and windows’ frames.

Palm trees are used as supporting beams for the roof and ceilings. Sometimes, they are used as secondary beams or ceiling boards. They are cut in a certain time of the year in order to obtain the best trunk which contains less fluid inside to avoid infestation. They are cut in half and soaked in salty water to avoid termites and other pests.

Reeds (genera: Phragmites & Arundo) are sewn to make a mat to be laid on the top of the ceiling beams.

Mountain of The Dead (Gebel el-Mawta)

Signboard

This is the first place you'll see if you come straight from Mersa Matruh. Located at the entrance of Sīwa.

Mountain of The Dead as seen from Shali

It is a large ancient graveyard on a hill. Many tombs here can be dated back to Ptolemaic and Roman period (3^rd -2^nd century BC). Some say, the graveyard has existed since Paleolithic and Neolithic era. Whatever.

Necropolis of Mountain of The Dead

Last year, Malaysian students were needed to pay entrance fee for only LE 1. Now, it’s LE 15 per head.

Some of the artefacts scattered on the hill

The graveyard can be divided into two areas: one area for commoner’s burial (south) and one for elite’s burial (north). Many skeletons are scattered on the hill but it would be insolent to take them home. It’s not yours!

Burial area for commoners

Head of femur (left); oblique fracture. Condyles of femur (right).

Burial area for elites

A tomb built for commoner

A tomb built for elites

Some of the ancient paintings inside a tomb. Vandalized.

The hill hosts the Tomb of Siamun (6^th pharaoh of 21^st Dynasty during Third Intermediate Period), the Tomb of Mesu-Isis, the Tomb of Niperpathot, the Tomb of the Crocodile and a 1,500-year-old tomb containing Graeco-Roman mummies. Most of them are chained/locked. Asked the guardians to open if you want to get inside and don’t forget to offer them some baksheesh. Some people said, there is an ancient painting inside one of these tombs telling the love story of Cleopatra and Mark Antony. I don’t know whether this is true or just a bullcrap. Better read Shakespeare’s Antony and Cleopatra texts.

The Temple of The Oracle

At the entrance

The Temple of The Oracle is built as dedication to the cult of ram-headed sun deity of Amun. It was built during the reign of King Amasis (570-525 BC). The temple housed a famous oracle whose fame was widespread in the East Mediterranean during ancient time. Alexander the Great had visited the temple on 332/331 BC. It is located in the eastern part of Sīwa. Aghurmi clan lives in this area. I was told by a man here that there’s only eleven clans living in Sīwa, in contrary to Sheikh Idris’ claim who said there are fourteen.

Temple of the Oracle as seen from Mountain of the Dead

Other Distinguished Visitors

Cambyses of Persia, son of Cyrus the Great who conquered Egypt between 525 and 522 BC had dispatched an army of fifty thousand of men from Luxor to destroy the temple. It was because the oracle had predicted that Cambyses reign in Egypt would soon falter. The entire army vanished without any trace and buried in the vast desert.

Cimon, a general of Athens, stood at Cyprus in 449 BC awaiting prophecy from the oracle before attacking Egypt. It is said that when his dignitaries reached the Temple, the oracle spoke, "Cimon is already with me." When they returned to Cyprus, the found out that Cimon had died as they were speaking to the Oracle.

Lysander, the great general, tried to bribe the oracle to assist his attempt to be crowned king of Sparta. But, upon the Sīwan priests’ order, a delegation was sent to Greece to prosecute Lysander for his impiety. However, Lysander managed to escape the prosecution thanks to the power of money.

Alexander's Visit

The most famous visit ever made to this temple is by Alexander the Great. After defeating Darius III of Persia in the Battle of Issus in 333 BC, he was acclaimed pharaoh of Egypt. He started his journey from his newly-founded city of Alexandria to Sīwa via Mersa Matruh.

Each of the pharaohs of Egypt's during 28^th Dynasty had traveled to Sīwa to be acknowledged at the temple there as the son of Amun-Ra. Though we do not know for certain about Alexander's intention in making the journey but it may have been a piece of political image-making.

For this purpose, Alexander had to endure the most difficult journey. According to historian Callisthenes, the convoy’s water supply suddenly finished. But somehow, it rained. A sandstorm caused them to lose their way, but two crows were sent to lead them safely to Sīwa.

When he arrives in the Temple, he was welcomed warmly in a celebrated ceremony. Dancers, musicians, priests and worshippers circled in procession in the forecourt of the temple. A manifestation of the oracle was paraded through the city accompanied by eighty priests. Then, Alexander had private audience with the oracle. We can assume Alexander wanted the same declaration of divine power to legitimize his conquest of Egypt and put himself on the same footing as the pharaohs. Some said, he consulted the oracle in order to seek confirmation whether he was really a son of Zeus, therefore a legitimate ruler of all lands he conquered. After his visit to the oracle, he had his image depicted on coins wearing the horns of the ram, symbolic of Amun.

Treasure vault. All of treasures are stolen by colonialists.

Entrance to the sanctuary from the second hall

The oracle's council room

Old mosque

The mosque's well. For ablution and other purpose. Now, it has dried.

Ablution basin for women

Salt lake

Salt lake

Sīwan girls selling handcrafts for souvenirs. You can get it for LE1-LE2. Very cheap. They are shy. I was told to watch my proximity with Sīwan women. So, I sneaked my camera and capture the picture but somehow they noticed.

The Temple of Amun

Temple of Amun, also known as the Temple of Umm Ubaydah was erected by pharaoh Nectanebo of the 30^th Dynasty. It is located 200 m further along the track between the Temple of the Oracle and Cleopatra Spring. Nothing left from this temple except a wall with hieroglyph inscriptions. It’s now a ruin, thanks to bombardment made by an Ottoman governor in order to acquire building material. Some amateur, non-licensed so-called historians said that the German use it as a shelter during WWII, worsening its former condition.

The wall with hieroglyph inscriptions.

Some of the ruin of the temple

STD: Summer Trip Damietta 2009

A day after examination, we held a picnic at Ras el-Bar, Damietta. We stayed overnight there.

Waiting for boat to cross River Nile in order to get to the other side of the river to buy seafood (too many 'to'). Before 12 pm, there are not too many boat operating. The town is relatively 'sleepy' during morning.

Apartment where we stayed. LE100 per night. 3 bedrooms, a kitchen, a bathroom, a toilet, a dining set and a fridge.

Squid fangs.

Hibachi chef.

Squid being grilled.

Ras el-Bar Beach.

Participants
Standing (LR): Faiz, Mujahid, Ikram, Romadonazikri, Me, Azim, Ibrahim, Firdaus, Hakim, Azrul, Hilmi.
Sitting (LR): Izzul, Syazani, Nadhir, Muaz, Zunnur, Ghazi, Affan, Hazim, Rashidi, Safwan, Izzat, Raja, Hanif, Izzat, Khairi.

River Nile.

On the way home.

Ras el-Bar.

al-Madīnah al-Munawwarah

Welcome to al-Madīnah al-Munawwarah, the City of the Prophet Muhammad (blessings and peace be upon him). One of its nicknames is 'the Dome of Islam.' It's area is considered as al-Ḥaram (ٱلحرم), which means there are no game to be hunted and nor trees are allowed to be cut down.

No specific haj nor umrah for this city even though Medinan and pilgrims who come through al-Madīnah can assume ihram at Zulhilaifah - at the city outskirts. Usually, people come here for visiting purposes.

Al-Masjid an-Nabawi ash-Sharīf is the famous landmark of the city. Its power control station is just below the mosque while its air-condition control station is located 7 km away from the mosque! The cooled air is brought to the mosque through 7 km-long plumbing system.

As-Salām Gate - Entrance to the main part of al-Masjid an-Nabawi. Pilgrims come through this door to visit the mausoleum of Prophet Muhammad (blessings and peace be upon him), Caliph Abu Bakr and Caliph 'Umar al-Khattab (may Allah be pleased with them).

Saudi Arabian Government still preserve most of the Ottoman architecture of this mosque. At this gate, you can see Ottoman calligraphy especially the distinguished Ottoman calligraphy of 'basmalah.'

Open-air area inside the mosque equipped with electronic sunshades.

Advice, Tafsir and I'jazul Ilmi

"Allah Taala rupanya... Allah Taala buat atas dunia ni ada pasangan belaka. Apa ni... tanaman ada pasangan. Dan dunia lo ni (sekarang ini) orang kahwin(kan) padi jantan (dan) padi betina. Kita hari tu kahwin(kan) Mamat dan Timoh jah. Kita dok sekko (ingatkan) jantan betina ni orang saja. Dok eh (Tidaklah). Allah Taala buat sejak berjuta tahun hari itu semua benda ni 'zawj' - berpasangan.

(Memetik terjemahan ayat 7 Surah Qaf) “...Kami tumbuh di Bumi ini bermacam-macam pasangan, ‘bahīj’ - yang comel”. Rumput ada jantan betina. Apa lagi? Rambutan ada jantan betina, Durian ada jantan betina. Apa... hatta elektrik(sekalipun), (yang) orang panggil elektrik ada positif ada negatif. Positif tu jantanlah, negatif tu betina.

"Jadi, sebanyak mana penemuan baru... penemuan baru ni bahawa dunia ni ada pasangan orang baru bertemu seratus tahun (akhir-akhir) ni baru. Allah Taala beritahu benda ni tengah dua ribu tahun hari tu lagi.

"Sebab itulah, ambo nak ulang yang (di)sebut tadi, nak memperkenalkan Tuhan ni jangan dok lok (biarkan) kepada tuk guru kampung sahaja. Tuk guru kampung mempunyai ilmu padan-padan dengan dia, maka dia mengajar agama padan-padan dengan dia.

"Demo hok dapat ilmu lebih daripada tuk guru kampung ni kerana apa tak royak (beritahu) ugama? Sikit-sikit caro ko duit la. Doktor cari duit, sains cari duit, apa lagi... pertanian cari duit, kesihatan cari duit. Eh, cari pahala tak ada dah ke? Tak ada dah ke cari pahala? Demo masuk kubur bawa duit ke atau pahala getek (juga)? Tok guru jah kira nak bawa pahala, demo tokse (tak mahu) bawa pahala ke?

"Demo nak buat guano (macam mana) masuk kubur bawa duit? Tebeng (Kalaulah) bawa duit masuk kubur, digali kubur (oleh) orang dicungkil, dicuri duit. Tapi, (jika) bawa pahala, siapa nak curi pahala?

"Jadi, tiap-tiap orang kena persiap duit campur pahala. Baik pun jenis tuk guru, baik pun jenis doktor, baik jenis lecturer, baik jenis apa sekalipun kena cari dua perkara sekaligus. Pertama hok (yang) dapat tengok yang dipanggil duit, yang kedua hok (yang) tok napok (tak nampak) tengok hok (yang) kita panggil dosa pahala."

-Tuan Guru Dato' Nik Abdul Aziz bin Nik Mat

20 Feb 2009